AN INTERMITTENT HISTORY OF THE HUDDERSFIELD TEXTILE SOCIETY FROM 1935 TO 2012

By Dr. John Pearson

Please note that the list of lectures and other tables included in the original history can be found on the History tab of this website.

AN INTERMITTENT HISTORY OF THE HUDDERSFIELD TEXTILE SOCIETY FROM 1935 TO 2012

(Extracted from the annual Journals of the Society, annual year books and the Minutes of the Society)

1          MEMBERSHIP

Over the 24-year period covered by the Journals, membership fluctuates, but was always over 200, apart from the first session after the War (1945-6), when total membership was 185, with 84 individual members.  Despite this, the average attendance at meetings was 150!

Company membership rose steadily from 56 in 1936-7 to 135 in 1956-7 and this figure included banks.  Individual membership was 136 in 1935-6, fell to 84 (see above) and then rose to reach 259 in 1958-9.  Total membership rose from 264 in 1935-6 to 391 in 1958-9.  The Journal of 1936-7 reports that there were 63 vice-presidents in that year, compared to 62 the year before.  Could these have been non-paying members?  This sub-division is not repeated in any subsequent Journal.

2          GENERAL COMMENTS

In 1934-5, the mayor of Huddersfield was asked to be President of the Society for 1935-6, but declined the offer.  The mayor and Council were invited to the AGM, but the mayor was unable to attend.  In the same year, Messrs Wheawill and Sudworth were asked to act as Hon Auditors, a position they still hold nearly 80 years later.

Some issues never change: in 1936-7, the Hon Secretary in his notes bemoaned the fact that only 66% of members had paid their subscriptions (there are no details of the size of subscriptions in any Journal).  In the 1955-6 Journal, the Hon Secretary appealed to members for old Journals and membership cards to be given to him as several were missing!

In Society minutes in the late 1930s, it was noted which lecturers to the Society asked for fees. These were usually 1 or 2 guineas; some speakers asked only for expenses.  The highest fee noted, 5 guineas, was requested by a lecturer from Leeds University.

Prizes were awarded in:

• Woollen yarn manufacture

• Worsted yarn manufacture

• Weaving and designing

• Cloth finishing.

Prizes continued to be awarded in these categories until 1958-9.

Small exhibitions were held in association with AGMs at this time.  Brook Taverner showed samples while, for several years after the war, students at the Technical College showed their ‘patterns’.

In 1938-9, it was decided to award an honorarium of £5 per annum to the Secretary.  £150 of War Stock was purchased that year (at 3½%) on behalf of the Society.

The Second World War caused a cessation of the Society’s activities.  A full programme of lectures had been agree to but, at the Committee Meeting of 21 September 1939 (less than 3 weeks after the outbreak of war) the advisability of cancelling lectures was discussed in view of the ‘prevailing conditions’.  It was agreed to suspend all activities until further notice, including not renewing subscriptions.  The next meeting of the Society did not take place until 25 March 1946, 6½ years later.

At the 1946 AGM, vouchers were presented to students who had been awarded Textile Society medals during the war years: the vouchers were to be exchanged for medals when these became available.  It was noted that some medallists were still serving and could not attend the meeting.  The vouchers were forwarded to them.

The 1945-6 Journal reported a visit made by Guy Crowther (President) to Germany, as a member of the Woollen and Worsted Manufacturers’ Panel, whose instruction was to survey ‘our’ branch of German industry in all its aspects.  He referred to people on the streets looking “sallow in colour and drab in clothing; such shops as there were had little to offer.  However, he was more optimistic about the prospects of the German wool textile industry.

A notable innovation took place in 1946-7: the first recorded lecture given by a woman.  However, this ‘experiment’ was not repeated for many years.

It was noted in the minutes of the 1947 AGM that ‘some very enjoyable entertainment was provided at intervals by 3 artistes engaged for the evening’.  This initiative continued for three more years.

The society agreed to purchase a typewriter (the cost being £36-38) for typing the Society’s correspondence.  The Presidents of the Dewsbury, Halifax and Bradford Textile Societies were invited to the AGM, at which the International Wool Secretariat (IWS) provided a small exhibition.  At the 1951 AGM, ICI Fibres was invited to provide an exhibition of fibres, including Terylene and Ardil.

The 1948-9 Journal reported the address by the President (Fred Haigh – also Chairman of the Wool Textile Delegation) at the annual dinner on:

• Exports

• Nationalisation

• Standards of manufacture

• Presentation and labelling

It was agreed that year that the Journal should be mainly a record of the lectures for members to keep as a record.  Committee members said the ‘over elaboration was unnecessary’.  The cost of advertising in the Journal was 30s for one page and £2 for 2 pages.

G Finlayson and P H Gee were appointed Life Members in 1950.

Care needed to be taken in the 1950s when setting a date for the AGM so that it did not clash with evening classes at the Technical College nor with City and Guilds examinations.

The President’s badge of office was unveiled for the first time on 5 March 1951.  It had been paid for by the president, Mr Crosland and the insurance premium was paid by Mr Crabtree.  The attendance at that year’s AGM was 145.  A special medal was presented to K Gjesdal, who would ‘otherwise have qualified for all 4 Society medals.  Mr Gjesdal travelled over from Norway specially for the presentation.

The Technical College held an exhibition to celebrate the Festival of Britain in 1951 and the Society was invited to exhibit posters, cloths, journals and historical items from member firms.  The invitation was rejected due to the’ shortness of time available’.

The Society’s finances were, of course, a standard agenda item at Committee meetings. In 1950, it was reported that the Society’s financial position was satisfactory, expenses rising, but not exceeding receipts.  It was decided that no charge would be made for the annual dinner ‘until a loss occurs’.

The debate about whether the future of weaving lay in automatic looms was a common theme in the 1950s.  AR Baines (WIRA) in his address to the 1950-1 AGM referred to the success of American production methods when using automatic looms.  He also referred to how helpful American Unions were in not opposing the introduction of new machinery and methods.  He discussed the need to increase UK textile exports and the need to specialise: “we must not produce elementary fabrics in mass”.  He referred to the need for the UK industry always to be ahead in design and colour and not rely simply on cheapening the costs of production.  He said that the UK industry needed to take more risks, as the American industry did – they ‘try something new and give it a go’.  It is amazing how relevant comments made 60 years ago still are.

Journals tended to include many pages of advertising.  The 1951-2 edition, for instance, contained 62 pages of advertisements, including those from companies in Lancashire, Cheshire, the South West, Wales and the Home Counties.  Such advertisements covered most aspects of the industry, but were mainly concerned with machinery manufacturers, including a bobbin maker in Liverpool and a loom maker in Barnsley.

After the War, the cost of publishing the Journal rose steadily and its financial viability regularly came under scrutiny: it had increased in size from 68 pages (+ 40 pages of advertisements) in 1946 to 152 pages (with 61 pages of advertisements) in 1951.  For instance, in 1951-2, ideas were suggested to reduce the cost, including the use of cheaper paper.

In that same year, subscriptions were increased from 3s 6d to 5s, with admission to lectures for non-members increasing from 6d to 1s.  It was agreed to charge non-members 7s 6d for the Journal.

Also in that year, the Society received a letter from a gentleman asking for help in obtaining employment.  The Hon Secretary replied that this was not really a function of the Society.

It was reported that several overseas students at the Technical College wished to continue receiving the journal on their return home.  It was agreed to allow such students to deposit a sum of money to the Society; they would continue to receive the Journal until the fund was exhausted.

Many of the current problems affecting the industry were around 60 years ago.  The Chairman’s address to the AGM (1951-2) referred to the fact that we cannot compete with foreign countries on the basis of cheap labour and low costs.  He averred that we depend on the skill and intelligence of all in the industry and that this Society is here to foster that.  Also at this AGM, G H Spencer (President of the Textile Institute) referred to the ‘suicidal tax’ that was the Excess Profits Levy.  It seems that successive Governments have seldom looked favourably upon the textile industry.  He did refer to the future of the industry depending on our being able to manufacture the best quality goods and said that Textile Societies are often too technical in the subjects they discuss.

In 1953, the retiring President offered to purchase and present to the Society ‘2 golden tablets’ to be inscribed with the names of Presidents and their years in office, to fit onto the ribbon of the President’s badge.  He also offered to buy a chairman’s gavel and base.

Further difficulties beset the Journal, this time in terms of a failure to produce scripts of lectures and discussions: these continued for some years.  On this occasion, it was suggested that a competent shorthand typist be hired and a Mrs Blatch was appointed at a fee of £1-1s-0d per lecture.  Such typists never seemed to last for very long, the same issue being raised several times over the years.  In 1957, there were still difficulties in getting lectures reported for the Journal and it was suggested that the Society borrow a tape recorder and then to transcribe from the tapes.  It was not recorded whether this trial proceeded or not.

Minutes of Committee meetings reported attendances at the AGM.  Since this was held on the same night as the Annual Dinner, attendances were high: 140-160 during the 1950s.  At the 1953 AGM, the Norwegian Cultural Attaché accepted the woollen and worsted yarn manufacture medals on behalf of Norwegian student Mr T Sydness.  The Mayor of Huddersfield usually attended the AGM and presented the medals.  In 1955, a silver ‘bon-bon dish’ was presented to the Mayor at the AGM in response to a request from the Town Council.

There were a relatively large number of textile-related organisations post-war.  In 1953-4, for instance, it was agreed to hold joint lectures with the Halifax Section of the Institution of Production Engineers and with Dewsbury Textile Society.  It was also agreed to invite members of the Society of Tuners to become members of The Huddersfield Textile Society.  In 1957, it was agreed to invite the Chairman of the ‘newly formed’ Huddersfield Section of the Textile Institute to the AGM.

Contacts were being made with European textile organisations.  In 1954, an exchange of journals was agreed with the Swedish Institute for Textile Research, and a similar agreement was reached with a Czechoslovakian Textile Institution in 1956.

Awarding medals to the best students at the Technical College was a feature of the Society’s activities.  In 1955, discussions took place with regard to establishing a prize for testing and quality control. However, this was rejected, since there was no complete course in these subjects at the Technical College.  The possibility of setting a competition for testing and quality control was discussed as an alternative approach.

As in 1951, one student qualified for all four medals and the same solution was reached: this student received a special medal, while medals were awarded to the ‘runners-up’, if merited.

National Service was still in existence and a sub-committee was set up in 1955 to investigate whether members on national service should be made honorary members.

Also in 1955, Mr Frank Mear was made an Honorary Life Member.

Committee meetings were held regularly, but often there were quite large time gaps between them.  In the 1950s, it was rare to have meetings in the autumn: in 1953-4, there were no meetings between May and the following January and there was no meeting between March 1956 and January 1957.  However, it was occasionally noted that informal discussions had taken place between Committee members after lectures.

The Society was always wool-centred.  In his address to the 1955-6 AGM (which was attended by the Mayor), J H Shaw said that there was a need for wool to be publicised and promoted in the home market for carpets so that it could compete with man-made fibres.  He referred to the 120,000 wool growers in the British Isles and to the need for quality: “stick to quality at the right price for a bright future”.

The Society’s rules were reviewed during this session, including no reduction in subscription for students or members of Her Majesty’s Forces; the management of the Society to consist of the Officers and 12 Committee members, five to constitute a quorum; Committee members to be elected for a four-year period, the three retiring each year in rotation not being eligible for re-election for 12 months.

A ‘Fashion Parade’ took place that session.  This caused a problem in that one local company, which ‘had given displays all over the world’, complained in writing that it was not invited to present the Show; instead, a non-member company was invited to do so.  Apologies were given to the former company.  The question of the size of the potential audience for the fashion event was discussed.  It was stated that the Society had 200 members, each of whom was to be invited to bring along ‘his lady’.  There was no suggestion that women could be members in their own right.  In the event, the Town Hall had to be booked as the expected attendance was so large.  No charge was made to those attending, but a collection was made for the Huddersfield and District Spastics Society, the Committee meeting minutes stating that this was what the Society was all about.

In the same session, the Hon Secretary received a letter requesting help in publishing a magazine article condemning the use of man-made fibres ‘from a medical point of view’.  Needless to say, the request was rejected.

Potential competition from abroad was also recognised in the 1950s.  Mr Birkinshaw, addressing the 1953-4 AGM, said that the industry would meet more fierce competition at many more points in the world than ever before.  However, he said that we should not be pessimistic, due to the local industry’s expertise in wool, the ‘king of fibres’.  He was another speaker to refer to the importance of quality and design, particularly in Huddersfield, which is ‘paramount in the world’.  He referred to the ‘superb training’ provided by Huddersfield and Bradford Technical Colleges.

The issue of quality was raised again that session. In answer to a question on whether quality should be sacrificed for quantity, the lecturer (J Day) said “yes, certainly if the quality is too high for what you need”: an interesting response.  Another lecturer in that session discussed the potential for automatic looms, but was somewhat scathing about air jet looms, saying that the use of compressed air was interesting and effective on 1 loom, but he should hate to see a weave room full of them.

The EU was also a bone of contention.  The 1957-8 journal includes an address from T T Sobey (member of the Wool Textile Delegation) referring to what was then the EEC.  He said that the whole scheme was being wrecked by the French, particularly with regard to Britain’s possible membership.  He commented on the need for management within the industry to be fit and competent at all levels with properly trained, reliable and dependable operatives.

1958-9 marked the 50^th active year of the Society.  It was decided to organise a special event to commemorate the anniversary, featuring Cyril Lord giving a lecture at the Town Hall.  Unfortunately, this had to be cancelled and there was no time to organise any alternative event. 

At that year’s AGM, the retiring President presented a President’s bell to the Society.  It was to be placed in the Large Hall of the Technical College (the regular venue for lectures at a fee which had increased from £2 to £5 per session) for use by the Society and by anyone else using the Hall.

The major topic of discussion in 1959-60 was again the Journal and the difficulties encountered in getting lectures published in it.  It was again suggested that a shorthand typist be appointed (to be paid £5 per lecture): no mention was made of what had become of previous incumbents, nor of the results of any trials using a tape recorder.  However, it was noted in the arrangements for the AGM that ‘the two typists’ be invited.

These problems meant that few copies of the lectures held in 1959-60 were available and it was agreed that they would be included together with the 1960-1 lectures in that year’s Journal.  Exactly the same problem arose in 1961-2: further difficulties in getting lectures transcribed and it was decided to put a motion to the AGM to discontinue publication of the Journal.  Opinions were clearly divided on this issue since, at the next Committee meeting 3 weeks later it was decided to ‘publish the Journal that was ready’; and to review the situation in the next year.

At the start of the following session (1962-3), the subject of difficulties in transcribing lectures for the Journal arose yet again.  Once again, the use of a tape recorder or shorthand typist was suggested, but these possible solutions were deemed to be impractical.  There were financial issues associated with the Journal and it was sated that even a significant increase in advertising fees would still not make the Journal self supporting.  One Committee member averred that the Journal was, in any case, superfluous and barely read by members, since there was ‘lots’ of technical literature available.  Finally, on 29 October 1962, it was agreed to discontinue the Journal. 

Mr John Mahoney was made an Honorary Life Member for his services to the Journal.

The AGM of the Federation of Textile Societies and Kindred Organisations was scheduled to be held in Huddersfield in May, 1961 and a sub-committee was set up to decide what the Society should do to contribute to the event.

It was agreed that a fashion show would be held in 1961-2, with a 1s 6 d admission charge ‘for charitable purposes’. 

The rising cost of the annual dinner meant that a motion was put to the AGM that, for the first time, a nominal charge would be made for it.

In early 1963, it was suggested that the Committee should have a dinner: an ‘all male affair’.  It was deemed a great success and became a regular feature of the Society’s calendar.

A further fashion show was held in 1963-4. The show was arranged as a ‘Ladies Evening’ and was presented by ‘Messrs Persil’, with gowns by Joanna of Almondbury.  The admission charge was 2s 6d and over £17 was donated to charity (Oxfam and St John’s Methodist Church at Almondbury).

Problems arose that year in getting the Society’s silver medals produced and it was decided to change printers to Messrs Fillans.  The Society purchased a new die for this.

That same year, it was agreed that holding the AGM and Annual Dinner on the same evening was causing major problems.  There were difficulties in fitting the proceedings into the time available and there was the risk of boring the Mayor and other guests with the intricacies of Society business.  It was agreed that the events should be held on separate days, the new venue for the dinner being Whiteley’s café, with a small charge being levied.  Since there would no longer be a dinner to attract members to the AGM, it was suggested that a film show be held to ‘entice’ members to attend the AGM.

In 1964, the problem of attracting more students to the Society was discussed.  Suggestions included the distribution of leaflets among students, advertising the Society and the benefits of joining it.  It was agreed to offer a scholarship (‘The Huddersfield Textile Society Scholarship’) to a boy (!) of promise leaving a local grammar school to come to the Technical College.  Leaflets would be distributed to schools and to the Youth Employment Officer.  The first offer was not, in fact, taken up and the Society agreed to increase the value of the Scholarship from £150 to £200 per annum to try and make it a more attractive proposition.

It was agreed to hold a buffet supper and dance at the Regent Ballroom.  However, this was eventually cancelled due to ‘lack of enthusiasm in the Society for the event’ and to the excessive cost of the buffet.

It was agreed that the Society would help the Junior Chamber of Commerce with their textile exhibition (held on 22-24 September 1964) by guiding visitors around the College of Technology.

The first Annual Dinner as a separate event took place in 1965.  The cost of the dinner was 14s 6d (72½ p) per head.  Members were only charged 10s 0d and guests were charged 17s 6d; it was agreed that ‘Past Presidents be asked to pay for their dinner’.  Although the income for the dinner covered less than half the cost, meaning that a loss of around £75 was made, this was deemed satisfactory; particularly since the “loss” the previous year was around £88.

In 1964-5, the possibility of the Society being registered as a charity (in order to obtain tax relief) was explored.  It was recognised that the Scholarship scheme may have to be re-drawn in this light.

One of the highlights of the Annual Dinner has always been the guest speaker.  However, a committee member thought that the guest speaker at the 1969 Dinner spoke for too long and suggested that 30 minutes was sufficient.

A recurring theme around this time was a lack of uptake for the Society’s scholarship: it was felt that neither parents nor teachers had realised the value of this opportunity and further publicity for it was suggested.  The problem had not been solved by the time of the 1970 AGM and further efforts were to be made to obtain suitable candidates.  There were applicants in 1971, but these were not deemed to be suitable.  In 1972, attempts were made to broaden the appeal of the award, suggestions for this including relating it to the new design course at the Polytechnic or using it as a travel scholarship or using it to fund specific study or piece of research.  The value of the award was to remain at £200.  Unfortunately, there is no further mention of the scholarship in the minutes up to and including 1979.

Also in 1969, Mr J G Bedford was made an Honorary Life Member and the War Loan was sold.

At the 1970 AGM, the Society’s President congratulated the staff of the Textile Department at the Technical College for ‘maintaining the basic principles of design and elegance which were in danger of being lost in this age of mass production.’

The first meeting of the 1970-1 session was held at the newly-established Polytechnic of Huddersfield.

At the 1971 AGM the President reported that the previous year’s lectures had been a ‘mixture of good and bad’.  A suggestion was made that the various Textile Societies should grade lecturers’ performance.

The following year saw the culmination of discussions which had taken place over several years concerning payments by non-members who attended meetings.  It was finally agreed to delete the Society rule relating to the 5p charge for non-members.

The Society was honoured in 1972: the Vice-President was elected President of the Textile Institute.

It was noted in that session that the Batley and Dewsbury Textile Societies had amalgamated.

At that year’s AGM, it was again arranged to fly over a Norwegian student to receive her medal at the Annual Dinner.  The recipient, Miss Aarchu (?) would appear to be the first recorded female recipient of a Society medal.

Comments were made around this time of a lack of new student members of the Society.  However, it was pointed out that there were often time clashes relating to evening classes at the Polytechnic and the start of Society lectures.

The first meeting in the 1972-3 session was held at the Albert Hotel, it falling during the Polytechnic summer vacation.  Subsequently, the Albert, the Polytechnic and the Golcar Conservative Club became regular venues for Committee meetings.

The Society arranged a visit to Prato in 1973 and it was suggested that students aged at least 20 years be invited on the visit as the Society’s guests, provided that the students were members of the Society and suitable in terms of wishing to increase their knowledge.  As a result, one student was so sponsored.  The trip itself was a huge success, generating £740 profit, which was put towards funding future overseas visits.

Also in 1973, a suggestion was made that pensioners who had resigned from the Society should have a reduction in their subscription in order that they could continue their membership.  The outcome of this discussion is not recorded.

Joe Hyman lectured to the Society in 1973 and this was deemed to be a ‘tremendous attraction’, with an attendance of around 250.  However, there was poor support for a fashion show and for some visits.  Concern was also expressed at the attendances at lectures in general; however, it was stated that these attendances were still higher than those at the Bradford, Dewsbury and Halifax Textile Societies.

At the 1975 AGM, the President commented on the possible adverse effects that the new Health and Safety legislation would have, especially for management, given the huge amount of administration and paperwork implied.

It was agreed that year that the Committee should have the power to set the level of subscriptions.

In 1976, it was noted that a new venue would have to be found for the Annual Dinner, following the closure of Whiteley’s café.  The Committee Dinner was held initially at the Scape House Inn and then at the Moorland Lodge Hotel.

In his address to the 1977 AGM, the President referred to a lack on interest in ‘sartorial elegance’ and that trends such as the use of denim in fashion, were not helping the quality market.  He also referred to problems associated with low-cost imports from eastern Europe and the Far East and to the importance of training with regard to recruiting labour for the industry.

The President continued this theme at the following year’s AGM and suggested that ‘inventiveness’ was vital if UK woollen manufacturers were going to compete with countries such as Italy, where the textile industry received significantly greater financial investment.  The new President felt that the UK textile industry could compete only by raising standards and ensuring that quality was high: delivery at the right time and right price.

This gloomy outlook was continued in the President’s address to the 1979 AGM.  It was estimated that up to 12,000 jobs would be lost in the West Yorkshire wool textile industry by the end of 1980.  Part of the problem, he said, was due to the Government withdrawing the temporary employment subsidy, to industrial disputes, to uncertainties regarding inflation and the next general election.  All of these factors meant a reduction in short-term confidence in the future of the industry.

On a more cheerful note, the Society visit to ITMA in Hanover in 1979 was stated to have been a success.

A minute’s silence was observed at the February 2002 meeting in respect of the sudden death of Arthur K Hatfield, Hon Secretary of Bradford Textile Society.

The possibility was raised of holding a fashion event.

It was proposed to set up a travel bursary fund.

A paper suggested possible approaches to young people in schools and colleges; cost and time issues were raised by Committee members.

It was proposed to have three-way joint meetings with the Bradford and Halifax Textile Societies.  The intention was to have 3 joint and 3 independent meetings each year, each Society promoting each other’s meetings.  It was aimed to have programmes ready by August and to send the 3 sets of programmes to members of all 3 Societies.  The importance of good promotion and publicity for these events was stressed.

Problems concerning the whereabouts of the Society’s official gavel were resolved when it was found in the bedroom wardrobe of a ‘senior Committee member’.

A meeting of the Centenary sub-committee discussed the possibilities of commissioning a painting and of printing a tea towel incorporating the Society’s logo.  Quotes were received for printing a centenary journal and a possible centenary trip was discussed.

The University of Huddersfield was supplied with a full list of members, with the intention of their being invited to the annual textile and fashion degree shows.

The annual dinner was judged a success, but opinions were split on the quality of the speaker.

The Centenary sub-committee reported that Lord Hanson had said that he could speak at the Centenary lunch in October 2003: it was agreed to hold a special lunch, separate to the annual dinner.

Sir Richard Sykes was to be the keynote speaker at the annual dinner.

It was reported that the web site was up and running.

The Huddersfield University student who had received funding gave a presentation to the Committee on her activities and studies in Finland, answered questions and outlined her planned activities in Germany.  However, later that year, a request for funding from 3 Huddersfield University students was turned down on the basis that they had not attended any lectures.  The Committee said that the possibility of future awards depended on better student support for Society events.

The centenary sub-committee reported in 2003 that 200 copies were to be produced of a painting of Huddersfield textile mills, with the names of the mills around the edge and with the Society logo.

The possibility of producing a printed tea towel was still under discussion.

The idea of a Centenary trip was not pursued.

It was proposed to hold an exhibition of Society memorabilia at the Huddersfield and District Textile Training Group.  This was held in September 2003.

A proposal was made to record and transcribe lectures.

It was reported that the web site had been updated.

Since only I Huddersfield University student had attended 1 lecture, the question of funding students was not pursued.

Comments were made at the AGM of poor attendance at that meeting (10 attended).  It was also stated at the AGM that the Society needed to get young people interested for the long term survival of the Society, for instance by holding competitions and having a venue for events closer to the University.

A Society visit to the 2004 ITMA was proposed.

Adverse comments were made about the annual dinner: service was claimed to be slow, the sound system was faulty, the guest speaker’s talk was too long and too technical and the comedian ‘wasn’t scintillating’.  The Committee felt that the Hon Treasurer should send a formal letter of complaint to the General Manager of the hotel.

It was claimed that there was an unruly element in the main body of the room: it was reported that the company involved had resolved the matter themselves.

It was proposed that the ’Huddersfield Textile Society Prize’ of £120 be awarded to Greenhead College students.  After discussion, it was felt to be fairer if the Prize were made available to students at all Huddersfield 6^th Form Colleges and that the ‘Huddersfield Textile Society Prize Fund’ for this should be £250.

At the 2004 AGM, best wishes were sent to the Hon Treasurer, who was seriously injured in a skiing accident and was in hospital.  Despite this, he still managed to carry out his duties for the Society.

It was stated that there were ‘considerable reserves in the Society’s coffers’.  However, for the first time in many years, the Society had shown a loss, due to the extra expenditure involved in the Centenary celebrations.

The success of the Centenary exhibition of memorabilia was reported on: it ran from October 2003 to February 2004 and was so successful that the Huddersfield and District Textile Training Group asked for it to be extended by 2 months.

The Centenary lunch was stated to be excellent: the Wool record reported ‘speeches of distinction do justice to the Society’s celebrations’, the speakers being Lord Hanson and James Sugden.

The new President stated at the AGM a wish to engage with younger members, in the hope that they would attend meetings.  The Senior Vice-President was concerned that students should be more actively involved with the local industry before being awarded Society funding.  However, a University student awards fund of £500 was established and it was resolved to continue the prizes for 6^th Form College students in Huddersfield.

The Huddersfield 6^th Form Colleges had written to express that they were most appreciative of the prize money awarded by the Society.

A complaint had been received from the hotel where the annual dinner was held about abusive language to a member of staff.  Overall, complaints were made that the dinner was not particularly well organised, but the speaker was regarded as a success.

It was reported in 2005 that subscriptions were down, due to membership numbers steadily declining.  However, the financial position of the Society was regarded as being strong.

The presentations at the annual dinner were extended: the design medal for Huddersfield University students was divided into Innovation and Creativity; there was also a yarn prize and fabric prize for Huddersfield Textile Centre of Excellence students.

Life membership was bestowed on Jack Yarker for his services to the Society.

An event was proposed at which young designers would present their work, to be judged by a famous fashion designer.  The Society agreed to sponsor such an event to the tune of £2,000.

At the AGM, the new President announced that the theme for the following year’s lectures would be manufacturing innovation.

A new post (Hon Press Officer) was proposed to develop further the external profile of the Society and an appointment was made to the post.

The annual dinner was regarded as a success.  The guest speaker met with qualified approval, since he had already spoken at the Halifax Textile Society dinner, at which some Society members were present.

A sub-committee was set up to look at developing an annual exhibition or competition aimed at 16-23 year old already involved in the industry.

Unofficial soundings had been made by the Bradford and Halifax Textile Societies about forming one, joint society.  The general feeling of the Committee was that the formation in the future of a Yorkshire Textile Society was inevitable, and that these overtures be followed up privately.

A Society visit to ITMA (Munich) was proposed.

Further discussion took place in 2006 with regard to a young person’s competition, this time to be aimed at year 10 school pupils and related to their school curriculum.  This suggestion was later modified, in light of potential cooperation with the Huddersfield Textile Centre of Excellence (HTCE) in running the competition.  The latest idea was to aim the competition at year 10 and 11 school pupils (ie age 14-16 years) who had enrolled onto the HTCE Vocational Training Programme.  The total prize fund was £500.  It was felt that this would ensure a viable number of entrants to the competition.

With regard to the possibility of forming a Yorkshire Textile Society, Huddersfield agreed that there was no need to merge, but that there was a need to promote more joint meetings.

A good attendance (16) was reported for the AGM.

2 Huddersfield University students were awarded £500 as sponsorship for overseas placements (Hong Kong).

More than 20 members attended a visit to Spectrum yarns.

A letter was circulated to members regarding possible interest in a Society trip to ITMA.

It was intended to have the web site updated.

The young person’s competition had been organised by 2007 and an event organised at HTCE to launch it, with guest speakers from the local textile industry.  Kirklees schools were invited, but the response was very disappointing.  This, together with the fact that there was no response to the HTCE textile taster programme, which had been made available to year 10 and 11 school pupils, and that there were no new learners at HTCE for 2008, meant that the event was cancelled and the idea of a competition put in abeyance.

The membership fee was increased from £3 to £5.

The annual dinner made a slight loss and it was agreed to aim for break even costs at the 2008 dinner.

It was reported initially that 19 delegates (including 4 sponsored students) had booked onto the ITMA trip: 2 sponsored places (at £50 each) were offered to both HTCE and Huddersfield University students.  The final total was 27.  The response from delegates who went on the trip was that it was ‘excellent’.

The web site was to be re-formatted; it had been updated by the time of the July meeting.

Following an initiative from the President of the Bradford Textile Society, discussions took place about a possible merger between Bradford and Huddersfield Textile Societies.  It was agreed that the Huddersfield President would discuss the issue with the Presidents of both the Bradford and Halifax Textile Societies.  By August, it was announced that the Halifax Textile Society intended to cease operating at the end of the 2008 lecture programme.  It was agreed that all lectures in 2009 be joint between Bradford and Huddersfield Textile Societies.  It was agreed to place advertisements in the Huddersfield Examiner newspaper and Wool Record journal for the 2008-9 lecture programme.

A Society visit to Spectrum Yarns attracted more that 20 members.

Contact was made with the Society of Dyers and Colourists with regard to involvement in joint lectures.

The new President, in his inaugural address in 2008, stated that he would aim to contact Huddersfield University in order to encourage more University students to attend Society lectures.  He also announced that he had contacted individual members of the defunct Halifax Textile Society inviting them to join the Huddersfield Society.

It was suggested that past Presidents should be encouraged to attend meetings.

A presentation was made by Huddersfield University regarding an oral history project covering the textile industry.  Heritage Lottery Funding would be sought for the project and the Society was asked whether it would sponsor the project.

The Society agreed to sponsor awards for trainees at HTCE.

A request was made by Huddersfield University in 2009 for the Society to sponsor a sample book for final year students on the Textile Crafts degree course

A group of Committee members visited Colne Valley Museum following a request for funding for developments at the Museum.  Following the visit, the Society agreed to donate a sum of £500.

It was proposed to invite a Huddersfield University student nominee to Committee meetings.  It was subsequently agreed that 2 should be invited, for mutual support.  The President met subject heads at the University.  He expressed his concerns at the lack of technical content in courses, but said that these had been replaced to some extent by new skills such as CAD.  It was suggested that there should be a contact person for the Society at the University and it was suggested that the Head of the Design Department should be co-opted onto the committee.  A suggestion was made by the University regarding possible financial support for University students attending Society visits.

Problems were noted with the web site in terms of its quality and currency.  These were ongoing throughout the year.

Life membership was bestowed on Graham Brierley for his services to the Society.

Complaints were made about the quality of the meal at the annual dinner.

Concern was expressed regarding a need to define the roles of the officers of the Society.

It was agreed to purchase an attendance register.

A modification was suggested to the Society’s rules, relating to the potential financial liability of Committee members should the Society be wound up.

Discussions took place in 2010 regarding the state of the Society’s finances and its commitment of funding in general.  A list of all awards and funding commitments was produced.

The Society’s website underwent a significant updating and included links to member companies’ websites.

As a result of difficulties in finding a new President, the current incumbent agreed to stand for a further year.  The importance to the long term viability of the Society of finding a new President was stressed.  It was also announced that, after many years of sterling service, the Hon Treasurer would be standing down, necessitating the finding of a replacement.

The issue of past Presidents attending the dinner FOC without attending meetings was raised.

It was agreed to continue sponsoring the Huddersfield University final year Textile Crafts sample book to the tune of £250.

Problems with inaccurate or deficient reporting in the press of the Zandra Rhodes lecture were reported with some annoyance.  The President was commended on bringing in such a prestigious lecturer and the size of the audience was regarded very favourably.

Regular attempts were made to contact local schools with the aim of publicising careers in the textile industry.  Unfortunately, aside from prizes being awarded at 3 schools in Huddersfield (10 awards: Huddersfield New College; Shelley High School; Greenhead College), little progress was made.

Attempts at liaising with Huddersfield University proved to be much more successful and, for the first time, University students were represented on the Committee.  Student attendance at lectures increased greatly.  The President became involved in judging final year degree shows in relation to the prizes donated by the Society.  Further publicity for the Society has resulted from this involvement.

A University student was sponsored to the tune of £500 related to her third-year placement in Korea.

It was agreed to insure the President’s chain of office.

Good publicity for the Society resulted from the President’s involvement in the Newbury coat event: the Society made a donation of £100 towards this event, which was filmed.

A highly significant event occurred in 2012: the election of the Society’s first female President.

Frustration was expressed at the apparent lack of interest by the local newspaper towards the activities of the Society.

3          LECTURES - GENERAL

The number of lectures per session has gradually decreased over the years.  In the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s, there were around 9 lectures per session.  These normally took place at fortnightly intervals during the first and second terms of the Technical College. This figure decreased to around 8 per session in the 1960s; to around 7 per session in the 1970s and 1980s and to around 6 per session in the 1990s and 2000s.  The holding of joint lectures with the likes of the Bradford Textile Society and the Textile Institute has increased both the number and scope of lectures.

Attendances varied and average attendances were usually noted in the Journals.  The average attendance in 1935-6 was 80; this declined to ‘only’ 50 a year later, reached 150 in 1945-6 and 166 a year later.  This fell to 147 in 1947-8: the Journal editor, however, notes that the average might have been 170 but for the adverse wintry weather (this was the famous cold, snowy and long-lasting winter).  Extremely bad weather in 1950-1 was reported to have caused small attendances at 2 lectures, but attendances never fell below 60 and the year’s average was 164.  Since there were 10 lectures that session, a total of around 1,640 people must have attended the series - an astonishing figure.

By the 1950s, despite increased membership figures, average attendances had fallen to 97 (1954-5) and 87 (1958-9).  Individual events, though, could draw massive crowds.  One (unspecified) lecture in 1938-9 drew over 200 people; the top attendance in 1945-6 was 226 and the highest was 315 in 1948-9 (what venue could hold such a crowd?).  In addition, a fashion show in 1955-6 attracted a crowd of  634 to the Town Hall venue while one in 1958-9 attracted over 1,000 people; presumably, also at the Town Hall.  A fashion parade in 1956-7 was held at the Technical College.  This included a collection for the “Anglo-Egyptian Aid Society (a follow on from the 1956 Suez Campaign?) which raised £10-12s.

The subjects of the lectures have varied over the years, reflecting the changing nature of the industry and the needs of its managers and employees.  In the early days, lectures tended to concentrate on new developments in machinery and techniques, giving companies much needed information in order for them to remain competitive.

In the 1930s and 1940s, lectures were focussed on spinning, the main industry of the area.  Around one-quarter of all lectures were on this subject, a further 10-15% each being on engineering/machine manufacture, dyeing and finishing and management and business.

By the 1950s, lectures on weaving had become more numerous.  The highest number (around 20%) was on spinning, but there were around 15% on each of weaving and dyeing/finishing.  It was during this decade that the subjects of knitting, fashion and retailing were first dealt with.

The 1960s saw spinning dominate lectures even more, to the tune of around 30% of all lectures, with around 10% of the total for each of weaving, dyeing/finishing and business and management.  Design became prominent for the first time, with around 10% of the lectures on this topic.  The 1960s saw the first lectures on computing, making-up, carpet production and nonwovens.

Spinning was still the most popular topic in the 1970s: around 25% of all lectures being on this subject.  Around 20% of lectures focussed on business and management, with around 10% on dyeing/finishing.  Very few were on weaving; marketing and Health & Safety were new topics, while the first of the ITMA reports was delivered.

BY the 1980s, business and management had become the most popular topic, with around 20% of all lectures.  Spinning was still a major feature (around 15% of all lectures), with weaving and dyeing/finishing (just under 10% each) still being prominent topics.  Specific quality issues were dealt with for the first time, accounting for just less that 10% of lectures.  Textile history became a popular topic: mills had closed in great numbers, so the memories of them had become important.  Lectures on CAD were given for the first time and the word ‘cotton’ finally appeared in a lecture title.

Lectures on business and management dominated the 1990s, accounting for nearly 40% of the lectures.  Spinning was barely mentioned; new fibres accounted for around 10% of lectures, while environmental issues were first dealt with in this decade, accounting for around 15% of lectures.  Technical textiles were first mentioned also.

The 2000s saw a much broader spread of topics, no one issue dominating.  .  Business and management topics accounted for around 20% of the total lectures, but the rest were a more eclectic mix.  Films from the textile archives were a regular feature, as were matters related to education and training.  The area of technical textiles, including nanotechnology and smart fibres, was a frequent topic as was, at the other end of the spectrum, fashion.  A major emphasis was that the UK textile industry is a modern, innovative and thriving one.

Lectures were held at a number of venues: Whiteley’s café, Heywood’s café, the Textile Department at the Technical College, the Liberal Club, the Large Hall of the College of Technology; the Catering Department of the College of Technology; the Catering Department of Huddersfield Polytechnic; the Textile Tower of Huddersfield Polytechnic; the Board Room at Huddersfield Polytechnic; the Z Block Lecture Theatre at Huddersfield Polytechnic; room CS2/18 at Huddersfield Polytechnic; and at the Huddersfield & District Textile Training Co Ltd and the Huddersfield Textile Centre of Excellence.  Some AGMs were held at Golcar Conservative Club.

Increasingly, from the 1990s onwards, the lecture programme included joint events with the Bradford Textile Society, whose meetings were held at the Bradford Club.

4          LECTURES – SPECIFIC

Lectures tended to be recorded in full in the journals.  Around ¼ of them concerned spinning and related topics.  The next most popular topic was dyeing and finishing: Charles Whewell (Professor of Textile Technology at Leeds University) gave 5 lectures in this area.  Raw materials weaving and management each accounted for around 10% of the topics; there were 5 lectures on research and even 5 on design and fashion.  2 lectures covered the old favourite: oils, fats and waxes.  Noticeably absent from the list is any reference to testing or quality control.  Wool was covered very widely and there were some lectures concerned with man-made fibres.  Whewell’s lecture in 1957-8 on finishing of new blended fabrics referred to: Fibro; Fibrolane; Tricel; Terylene; Perlon; Ardil; Vinyon; Rilsan; Orlon; Acrilan; Courtelle; Dynel; Rhovyl; Taslan; Banlon (these were the days of branded fibres) but there was little reference to cotton.

Other notable speakers have been J B Speakman, British Nylon Spinners, P P Townend; Joe Hyman, Marks and Spencer, Isidor Glasman, David Brunnschweiler, David Finlay-Maxwell, Brian Haggas, Lord Hanson, James Sugden, Subhash Anand, Dominic Dormeuil, Elizabeth Peacock, James Haigh, Clive Jeanes  and Zandra Rhodes.

Two brains trusts were held as part of the lecture series.  Questions asked at the 1945-6 event included:

• Whether synthetic and wool mixes are an advantage, particularly as regards export

• Could average marketing methods be improved?

• Is a policy of controlled prices for raw material and cloth to the benefit of the industry?

• It is increasingly difficult to find workers to do the dirty jobs – should such jobs be better paid?

• Is there any future selling to an export market which is steadily increasing and developing its own manufacturing?

• Does the future of the export trade lie in increasing the sale of high quality specialities?

Plus ça change!

A 1948-9 lecture on the Peralta machine was preceded by the comment: “It is claimed that the ‘Peralta’ widens considerably the choice of raw materials and that there is no longer any necessity to carbonise wool whatever the amount of impurity”.

The same season saw a design-based lecture, the introduction from the Chair stating: “I don’t quite know what Mr Kenningham (the speaker) will cover in this lecture tonight, but from the title (‘Wool knowledge – technique and handicrafts’) I think it is going to be the type of talk we have been wanting for a long time”.

By contrast, as ‘an experiment’ in 1950-1, the Committee tried to arrange a lecture to be of interest to ‘members’ ladies’ (‘The clothes doctor’ – a review of cleaning clothes).  Poor weather severely restricted the attendance and the ‘experiment’ was repeated, the same lecture being given in 1954-5 under the heading ‘Ladies’ Night’.  Reports on these events were highly patronising.  In 1950-1, the ladies ‘appeared to find the lecture interesting’; even more patronising was the introduction from the Chair prior to the 1954-5 lecture: “The ladies will perhaps forgive me if I do occasionally lapse into technical language”.

Ladies’ evenings then became a fairly regular feature of the Society’s programme: at least 10 took place from 1958-9 onwards, the last one being in 1989-90.  The evenings consisted mainly of fashion shows, at the Town Hall, George Hotel, Rushworth’s and the Regent Ballroom.   The 1961-2 evening included ‘a non-technical’ talk.  The 1986-7 evening centred on a design competition, awards and display, sponsored by Lurex.

Some lecturers were a little less knowledgeable than others.  One, in 1950-1, answered a question following his talk on modern developments in woollen yarn manufacturing by confessing that had never heard of the Pacific Converter.

In the same session, in discussions following H S Bell’s lecture on knitting, opinion was that it might not be in the industry’s interest to introduce ladderproof stockings, as they would last too long so would not need replacing very often.

A fascinating lecture in 1955-6 was given by F C Tryhorn (Forensic Science Laboratory, Harrogate).  He referred to several cases where the identification of textiles had clinched the case.  These included a strand of worsted thread, one inch long, found a on a victim, which was deduced to come from a tear.  A man with an appropriate rip in his suit was found guilty.  Fibres from a suspect’s fingernails matched those on a garment worn by a victim.  Dogs accused of worrying sheep were given an emetic and wool fibres looked for in their vomit as well as their excrement!

A question to S Morse-Brown (IWS) in 1956-7, related to his talk on fashion in wool referred to the effect of having a television set as a formal part of a room on its furnishing and decoration.  He was asked which colours were restful ones (blue and grey) and, somewhat oddly, for an explanation of Picasso’s work and whether he thought that French styles had gone too far.  He gave non-committal answers to both.  He said that women have a more highly developed colour sense than men.

In the 1950s, work study was seen as the answer to industry’s woes and there were 2 lectures on this topic.  After one of them, in 1956-7, the Trade Union speaker was asked about equal pay for men and women and said that it ought to apply.  This is still being argued about some 55 years later.

5          EXCURSIONS

These were not recorded in the Journal until the 1947-8 session and included, to our eyes possibly, some odd venues.  That first season saw visits to the Huddersfield Corporation Sewage Department and to the Huddersfield Corporation Electricity Works.  The Huddersfield Corporation Gas Works were visited the following year, together with the CID headquarters at Wakefield.  It was also noted that, during that year, some members had visited the newly opened Torridon (“Wool Industries Research Station”).  In 1952-3, the Holme Moss television station was visited, in a year when there were 6 excursions.  This was cut to 2 in 1954-5 and 3 in 1958-9: poor support by members for these excursions was stated as the reason for the reduction in number.  In this latter year, the Daily Express print works was visited in Manchester (46 attended; the attendance at the Machinery and Accessories Exhibition at Belle Vue, Manchester, was described as being disappointingly low).  Visits in the 1950s tended to attract 20-40 people; presumably there were restrictions in the numbers that hosts could deal with.  The Excursions Secretary bemoaned the fact that, in 1951-2, there were 14% fewer attendees on visits than applications.

It was noted that Thomas Ambler (visit in 1955-6) had opened their factory to the public for one day earlier on that year.  Expecting 300 visitors, around 2,000 turned up, many of whom were schoolchildren “and possible future workpeople”.

Most of the visits were to companies in Yorkshire, mainly in the West Riding.  However, many visits have been made to Lancashire and some to Cheshire, Derbyshire and Nottinghamshire.  For most of these, the Society arranged transport by coach.

The 1960s and 1970s saw some very adventurous visits: a 2-day visit to Belgium (leaving Yeadon at 7.30 am on the Saturday, returning at 6.30 pm the following day, the cost being £15-19); a 3-day visit to Basle (leaving Manchester at 3.00 pm on the Friday, returning at 11.40 pm on the Sunday); a 4-day visit to Prato and a 1-day visit to Belfast (leaving Yeadon at 7.45 am and returning at 8.00 pm the same day, the cost being £7-10s-0d).  Coaches were arranged to take members to the airport: for the Belfast trip, the coach left Huddersfield 1 hour before take-off – straight off the coach and onto the aircraft.  These were the days when passengers did not have to arrive at the airport 2 hours before take-off for security checks and the like.

It is interesting to note that around half of the excursions in the early days took place on a Saturday.

Visits to ITMA have also been a regular feature, the first one being to Paris in 1971, then  1975 Milan, 1979 Hannover, 1983 Milan, 1987 Paris, 1991 Hannover, 1995 Milan, 1999 Paris, 2003 Birmingham & 2007 Munich being the last one that the society organised a trip.  These visits, especially the ones that Richard Brown organised, gave the society a very comfortable bank balance, reaching £46,000 following the 1999 trip. 

ITMA was such an important exhibition for textile manufacturers, as they could see the different manufacturers of textile machines running and decide which ones to buy.  For a number of years there were only three exhibition centres in Europe that were large enough to house the huge show, as factories were set up to manufacture textiles.  It ran for around 10 days and the companies would manufacture tonnes of material over the show.  The noise when you went into the weaving halls was amazing.  Each exhibition led to manufacturers trying to weave the fastest picks per minute, spin the finest yarns, wind the largest cones and detect the smallest faults.  There was also one manufacturer that would create a perpetual motor driven clock, and you had to try and work out how they made ity function.  Alas, by the time we had the exhibition in Birmingham in 2003 the British manufacturers had been hit badly, and there were fewer and fewer new machines bought, so, whilst a coach trip was organised, the trips were not needed.  It was also a lot easier to buy flights and book hotels, so the few companies still in the market for machines went under their own steam. 

6          OTHER

The annual dinner has been a constant feature of the Society.  In the early days, the annual dinner preceded the Annual General Meeting and was held at Heywood’s Café.  Following the decision, taken in 1964, to have separate events, the dinner was moved to Whiteley’s Café and then to Greenhead Masonic Hall, the Ladbroke Mercury Hotel and the Pennine Hilton National Hotel (now the Cedar Court Hotel).  Traditionally, the dinner has been the occasion when the Society’s industry- and University-based prizes have been presented.

In 1948, the dinner was held at Whiteley’s café, the cost being 4s 9d (about. 24p) per head.  In 1952, the AGM and dinner were held at Heywood’s café at 6s 6d (about 32½p) per head, with a £3 3s room charge. This had risen to 7s 6d by 1957, to 8s 0d by 1958, to 9s 6d by 1960 and to 10s (50p) by 1964.

Initially, the dinner was provided at no cost to members.  The question of charging members was first raised in relation to the 1955 dinner.  The money raised from the dinner went towards the committee, and ex-presidents’, dinner.

When the dinner was held at The Hilton at Ainley Top, later called Cedar Court, 360 people was the maximum number squashed onto long tables with benches, around 30 people per table.  There was hardly enough room between them for the poor waiters and waitresses to serve.  

Past speakers at the dinner include Peter Docherty, Ted Moult, Peter Moloney (ex-Trappist monk), Fred Trueman and Billy Thompson (rugby league referee).